IPSWICH — Even health-conscious diners won't find much to beef about in the meat of cattle fed an old-fashioned diet of pasture grass.
"Interest in local, grass-fed beef is skyrocketing," said Wayne Castonguay, manager of Appleton Farms in Ipswich, where all of the beef cattle get their meals in the farm's fields.
Long considered one of the villains in the American diet, beef has been associated with increased saturated and total fat consumption and higher cholesterol. But grass-fed beef devotees claim it is as low in fat as skinless chicken breasts and even contains the same omega-3 compounds as fish.
"It's the grain that makes the meat a health issue," Castonguay said.
For the most part, health experts agree. A study by the Union of Concerned Scientists in 2006 found that compared to grain-fed beef, grass-fed beef is lower in both saturated and total fat, has higher levels of the omega-3 fatty acid alpha-linolenic acid, and "sometimes" higher levels of the omega-3 fatty acids eicosapentaenoic acid and docosahexaenoic acid.
According to the study, "The three omega-3 fatty acids | the so-called beneficial fatty acids | have been shown in many studies to improve health and prevent disease in humans."
"It has 100 percent the same health benefits as salmon," Castonguay said.
A side benefit is that grass-feeding beef is more environmentally sound than feeding grain to cattle. No fuel is consumed producing food for the cattle or transporting it to them.
The vast majority of beef cattle in this country have a diet made up of grain, soy and other ingredients in order to increase the energy density of their diet.
'Lucky to have it'
Appleton Farms, which is owned by the Trustees of Reservations, operates a community-supported agriculture program. Customers buy shares in the farm every year and in return are guaranteed a weekly supply of fresh, locally grown produce. They can also buy portions of the cattle after slaughter.
The farm's meats are also being offered at Bruni Farms and Ipswich Shellfish Market, both in Ipswich.
Zina Smith, store manager at the shellfish market, said she's always clamoring for more of Appleton Farms' beef. The store has offered other beef products in the past that didn't sell well, but grass-fed beef flew off the shelves from the start, Smith said.
"With all the things that are in the news about how (farmers) are treating cows, everybody is concerned with what they're putting in their mouths," she said.
Ground beef and beef patties are particularly popular. Prices range from $4 per pound for ground beef to $12 to $14 for steaks.
"I've had the ground beef myself," Smith said. "It's delicious."
Castonguay said his biggest hurdle is keeping his cattle in grass.
"You need high-quality land to grow high-quality hay," he said, and while Appleton Farms comprises 1,000 acres, only about 100 of them are suitable for hay.
The farm raises both Jersey and White Park breeds of cattle. The Jersey cows are milked, and the bulls are raised for slaughter.
Some cattlemen feed their animals grass until just before slaughter, then "finish" them on grain. Castonguay said his cattle get a little grain until they are weaned and nothing but grass after that. That's why they need high-quality hay, and it's why the farm can supply beef only from late spring through the early winter months.
Ipswich Shellfish Market executive chef Peter Munroe said Appleton Farms' beef has a completely different taste than traditional, grain-fed beef.
"We're very lucky to have it," Munroe said.
Although steak cuts lend themselves to grilling, Munroe cautioned diners who like their meat well-done to avoid cooking over high heat, as the steaks could dry out. Although grass-fed beef is a bit more expensive, Munroe thinks it's worth the difference.
"Even the ground meat is very, very good," he said.
Steve Landwehr may be contacted at slandwehr@gloucestertimes.com.
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