GloucesterTimes.com, Gloucester, MA

Breaking News

Lifestyle

July 24, 2013

Food for Thought: Culinary matron of the Gloucester waterfront

This is a portrait of a perfect traditional Gloucester meal.

Setting: the moon rising over a granite-calm Gloucester Harbor, framed by the masts of the Thomas Lannon, hemmed by the gray sides of Intershell Seafood, Mortillaro’s Lobster, North Atlantic Fish, and Cape Pond Ice, hardworking remainders of the Gloucester fishing Industry, with seagulls tipping against the dusk.

Atmosphere: an eventide hush off the boat-less, lapping waters, the occasional clink of china from inside the restaurant, a few muted voices from other tables’ conversation.

Service: warm and attentive

Wine List: two glasses of summer-evening white wines, both flattering to seafood, a Viognier and a Gruner Veltliner

The Meal: hot, plump, sweet steamers and a warm dish of pink lobster chunks baked beneath a cover of fresh, buttery crumbs.

This was dinner at the Gloucester House a few evenings ago.

I drive by The Gloucester House 10 times a week; it’s such a part of Rogers Street‘s cobbled architecture I don’t even see it anymore. I’ve been dismissing this Gloucester matron as a tourist destination for too long, but after the above serendipitous dinner with out-of-town friends, I learned the tourists know something I don’t — until now.

Run for 35 years by Lenny Linquata and his family, The Gloucester House also operates a wholesale lobster business. Eight lobster boats head out everyday to pull traps, so what better place to enjoy a fresh lobster at a great price? Linquata’s fish come from Intershell, Ocean Crest, and Steve Connolly, Linquata’s brothers-in-seafood on the harbor.

To repeat a bit, my steamers were fat, so sweet they were almost confections, and sandless. Linquata prides his restaurant on having clean steamers, washed a minimum of 5-6 times. As mentioned, the lobster dish was piping hot, chunks of delicious rich lobster dressed in nothing but toasted buttery breadcrumbs and lemon.

Text Only | Photo Reprints
Lifestyle

Your news, your way
Pictures of the Week
Comments Tracker
AP Entertainment Videos
Married Couple Seeks 'Satisfaction' in New Ways Cast on Love, Weather and Stunts of 'Outlander' Busy Franco's Not Afraid of Overexposure 'The Bachelorette' and Her Beau Go Public Tatum Says Filming 'Foxcatcher' Was 'tortuous' Was That Harry Potter at Comic-Con? Fox Dons 'Bondage Strap' Skirt at Comic-Con Cumberbatch Brings 'Penguins' to Comic-Con 'Modern Family' Star on Gay Athletes Coming Out The Rock Brings Star Power to Premiere Uzo Aduba Says Emmy Nod Is 'Crazy' EPA Gets Hip With Kardashian Tweet Bush: Don't Worry, Sugarland Isn't Breaking Up Mirren Not Thrilled to Play 'The Queen' on B'way The Rock Finds His Inner 'Hercules' ShowBiz Minute: Hoffman, Oberst, Box Office Shawn Mendes Jumps From Vine to the Music Charts Cook Shifts Gears in 'Planes: Fire and Rescue' ShowBiz Minute: Stritch, Marvel, Beyonce ShowBiz Minute: Cole, JWoww, Box Office