GloucesterTimes.com, Gloucester, MA

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February 14, 2012

New owner spices up What's Cookin'?

I'm livin' the dream," Brian Rice beams as he swabs down stainless steel countertops in his recently opened Washington Street eatery, What's Cookin'?

Swabbing down countertops may not be everyone's idea of "livin' the dream," but for Rice, a former bond trader who traded in big-time finance for a small town culinary life, it comes with the territory of finally opting to follow Joseph Campbell's famously bumper-stickered advice: "Follow your bliss."

Before converting the now defunct Scroo Cookin' into the newly reconceived What's Cookin'?, Rice, a Rockport native and graduate of Rhode Island's Bryant University, had divided his career years between finance and real estate — mostly with Charles Schwab, and mostly in California, where, for more than a decade he'd immersed himself in Pacific Rim lifestyles, first in San Francisco and later in Santa Barbara.

Yet through all those years, says Rice, who'd worked as a waiter since he was a kid in Rockport restaurants, "I'd always still harbored this dream of someday having a restaurant of my own."

Rice had actually made a first leap toward that fantasy back in Santa Barbara, where he'd invented himself a three-month internship at an upscale bed and breakfast he was considering buying. But, he says, "the 24/7 life of a B&B entailed more commitment than I could see myself making," so he moved on to buying and flipping homes at a profit.

When family commitments brought him back home to Cape Ann in 2002, he continued to work the local real estate market, but also invented another internship for himself, this time moonlighting at Rockport's The Lobster Pool, before moving on to Gloucester, where he honed his culinary skills, churning out steaming vats of freshly made soups daily, eventually evolving his "own brand" of what he calls "comfort food with attitude."

That "attitude" is much in evidence in Whats Cookin'?

For anyone familiar with the relaxed, down-homey ambience of defunct Scroo Cookin', the difference is literally in the air.

For one thing, there seems to be more of it; the space feels larger, lighter, brighter following a do-it-yourself renovation and reorganization; the kitchen is more visible and equipped more like a serious chef's domain.

With his high-energy edge and starched whites, Rice seems spliced in from the set of Fox's highly competitive "MasterChef." In fact, he's recruited none other than Christian Collins, Gloucester's own "MasterChef" top three finalist and local culinary celebrity, as part of his team at What's Cookin'?

While Rice shares the stove in the downstairs kitchen with Rockport chef and former restaurant owner Mari Martin, "Christian is already handling catering jobs out of our upstairs kitchen," says Rice.

That kitchen, which is equipped for catering. and, at 700 square feet, doubles the size of operating space to 1,400 square feet overall, was a major "deal maker" for Rice, who said he'd considered several more expensive available spaces in downtown Gloucester before quickly closing on the 185 Washington St. property in December.

With Collins onboard, catering is an area Rice plans to grow quickly. Meanwhile, Martin's mastery of earthy vegan specials, combined with Rice's meaty, hearty specials, is already quickly growing the daily take-out counter trade, he said.

Though many of those customers are Scroo Cookin' carryovers, Rice says, generous free sampling — especially on the shop's Jan. 26 Grand Opening day — won instant converts to such signature specialties as Martin's rich, vegan Curry Coconut Soup and Rice's equally rich slow-cooked Bolognese sliders.

The shop's soup menu now stands at "about two dozen" — three cooked daily and listed on an ever-changing blackboard. Then there are the other daily specials, hot paninis, sandwich classics, and salads. Freshly cooked meals in microwaveable containers are available for pick up on the fridge shelves, next to local artisanal favorites. Mike Ciaramitaro's Trupiano Sausages have found a new home here, as have "the one and only" Sasquatch's smoked fish favorites, including salmon, trout and mussels.

What's Cookin?' is cooking six days a week, Monday through Friday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Saturdays, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

For more information, call 978-281-8668, or visit: wcgloucester.com.

Joann Mackenzie can be reached at 978-283-7000, x3457, or at jomackenzie@gloucestertimes.com.

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